Carbonized Wide Bamboo

We do not provide installation services but have no fear as there are many high-quality contractors in your state and the majority will be eager to provide a free estimate over the phone or in the comfort of your own home.  We recommend that you check out our helpful article titled 7 Tips For Choosing A Floor Installer.

Different flooring finishes require different cleaning solutions and methods, so we recommend you read our Bamboo Flooring Maintenance Guide carefully for your specific finish type. 

As for cleaning solutions, for regular maintenance and spot cleaning it is hard to beat the Bam-Brite hard surface floor cleaner.  Alternatively, you may use most standard floor cleaners approved for your specific flooring finish, such as Swiffer Wet Jet for Hardwood (if you have wood/bamboo), and Bona Hardwood Floor Care Kit.  For spot cleaning, you can also use one cup of white vinegar mixed in with a half bucket of warm water, with a lightly damp mop, but do not use vinegar for regular cleaning as it can affect the finish PH balance and dull the luster over time.

Never steam mop or wet mop bamboo/hardwood floors, and never use mineral spirits, turpentine, or paint thinner on our floors.  If you have a cleaning solution you are not sure about, make sure to test it on an out of the way area or sacrificial plank prior to using it on your floor, to ensure it does not damage the finish.

The installation method you use will depend upon a few factors, including the type of floor you're using (click-lock or tongue and groove). Here's a quick overview of each method to help you determine which is best for you:

Nail down. This is the most economical installation method, and it's the fastest after the floating method.  The drawback is that over a long period of time nails can come loose due to repeated seasonal cycles (expansion and contraction), resulting in a squeaky floor.   For nail down installations you'll want to use a 15 lb felt paper or similar as underlayment.  To install strand woven flooring you'll need to use a pneumatic nailer that shoots 18 gauge hardwood flooring cleats; using the wrong cleat thickness may result in dimpling or goosebumps in your strand bamboo floor.   We recommend using a Primatech Q550 Nailer or a Powernail 50P Flex for all strand bamboo nail down installations.

Glue down. While this is the most expensive and labor-intensive method, it is also considered the most stable method as the glue provides sound and moisture insulation, and the elasticity in the glue allows the floor to expand and contract naturally with the seasons.  Our floors can be glued down to a multitude of surfaces.  Be sure to check out the Acceptable Subfloor Types table in our installation instructions. If you're gluing down over plywood you can use a basic urethane hardwood glue, but if you're going over a slab you'll want to choose an all-in-one glue for bamboo flooring over concrete. Remember that it's important to use the correct trowel in tandem with the glue you've chosen.  If you use the wrong trowel you may not get the correct spread rate, causing your floor to fail.  This can be a very expensive mistake!

Floating. The advantage to a click-lock floating floor is the ease of installation as it is less time consuming to install.  It is also easier to repair floating floors should you ever have a leak or other problem.  The disadvantage is that, unless your home has stable indoor humidity year-round (meaning it stays within a 20% range indoors the whole year), you are limited in the length of the continuous runs of flooring you can lay.  Across the widths of the planks (tangentially), you are limited to 25 feet with engineered floating floors and 15 feet with solid floating floors.  Running down the lengths of the planks (longitudinally) you are limited to 45 feet with engineered floating floors and 25 feet with solid floating floors.  For this type of installation, we recommend you use a 3 in 1 underlayment.

Q: Do you sell stain or touch-up products to repair floor scratches or gouges?

A: While we don't sell color stain for our floors, we do have some helpful suggestions for minimizing and repairing surface damage on bamboo and hardwood flooring.

Why We Don't Offer Color Stains

We don't offer color stains because they are unstable outside of a controlled factory environment and may change hue over time. Also, since bamboo and wood are natural products, shade variations between lots are common, making exact matches difficult.

Repairing Surface Scratches (White Scuff Marks)

Micro-scratches are common, especially on darker floors. These are usually just in the surface finish and can fade over time with normal foot traffic. You can use the products below to reduce their visibility:

• Tibet Almond Stick - for small surface blemishes
• WearMax Scratch Concealer - seals and blends light scratches
• Rejuvenate Wood Floor Repair Markers - color match pens for light marks

Some customers have also used the meat of a walnut to rub out micro-scratches with success.

Repairing Deeper Gouges and Penetrated Finish

If the damage has gone through the finish and stain layer, start by using a floor marker to reduce visible discoloration. Then, consider filling the gouge with one of the following products:

• Weiman Wood Floors Repair Kit
• Picobello Wood Floor Repair Kit
• Mohawk Fil-Stik or Hard Fill Kit
• Timbermate Wood Filler

Flexible fillers are best for high-traffic areas since they can expand and contract with the floor. Hard fillers may crack over time if exposed to foot traffic.

Touching Up Worn or Dull Finish

To restore worn areas or reduce sheen differences:

• Buff lightly using 80, 120, or 150 grit screens
• Apply a matte oil-based polyurethane finish
• Optional: Use Basic Coatings StreetShoe (popular with pro installers)

For best results, apply to a full room rather than spot-treating individual boards. Always test your method on a sacrificial plank or hidden area first.

Important Note: These are general suggestions. Since every floor and repair method is different, we strongly recommend testing your approach on a hidden area before making visible repairs.

Due to the density of strand woven bamboo flooring, we recommend only using a high PSI, high quality 18 gauge pneumatic nailer, such as a Primatech Q550 ALR or Powernail 50P Flex.� These nail guns require an air compressor.� You must use an 18 gauge cleat, as larger cleats will cause dimpling.� Staple guns will not work on strand woven floors.�� When nailing down a floor we typically recommend you first lay 15 lb felt paper.

For moldings installation we recommend a Bostich Porter 23 gauge micro nailer or similar gun.�

For all nailers, make sure cleats and nails are set properly before continuing to the next row, as failure to do so may result in goosebumps/dimpling.� You may need to try several pressure/PSI settings before finding a setting that will work – test on sacrificial planks.� Ensure the connector hose, seal, and air compressor are fully functional and have no tears or defects.��

If you do not use the correct nail gun or cleat size, you may get dimpling in your floors. Read this important document about goosebumps and dimpling in strand woven bamboo.

NAIL GUN PRESSURE TOO HIGH: ��ALWAYS practice on a few planks to ensure the correct PSI setting on the nail gun. If the pressure is too high the nail will split the plank. ��When using the mallet always use small, light taps - as opposed to large, forceful taps – this is the best to get a snug fit.�

NAIL GUN PRESSURE TOO LOW: �If the PSI is too low you will end up with dimpling (“goosebumps”) on the face of the floor.� Always inspect for dimpling from a low angle and with backlighting after installing the first two rows, because it’s difficult to see when standing directly over the area.� It is the responsibility of the installer to check each row after it has been nailed down to ensure all cleats are sufficiently embedded in the planks so they don't cause dimpling in the finished floor upon fastening successive rows. �

NAIL GUN PRESSURE JUST RIGHT: �You will know that the pressure is just right when the cleat is flush or slightly below the surface of the tongue.

Tongues are slightly splitting – that is okay!
When nailing down extremely dense hardwoods like strand bamboo and eucalyptus there is a chance that the tongue on the planks will crack or split when the cleat is driven in. As long as less than 30% of the cleats have splitting around them, and the splitting is minor, this is perfectly normal and is not considered a defect (your floor will still be covered under the warranty if this happens) as the cleat is still firmly driven into the rest of the board keeping it securely in place. When splitting is happening try to use less force when striking the nailer with the mallet. Below is an image showing acceptable splitting, if occurring on less than 30% of the planks.

Yes!

Our Rigid Core Bamboo Floors (SPC core) require 24 hours of acclimation; Our solid and engineered (non-SPC) bamboo and eucalyptus floors must be acclimated for at least 72 hours prior to installation, and we recommend an additional 7 days for geographic areas of high or low humidity.

Do not acclimate the floors on top of concrete, carpet with concrete under it, crawl spaces, or any other sub-floor that may contain moisture, without first laying a 8 mil polyethylene plastic barrier down, or the flooring will soak up the moisture from the concrete and shrink post-installation. Make sure to extend the apron/border of the plastic barrier at least 18 inches beyond the flooring boxes.

Ensure that the flooring is acclimated within the same room (or adjoining room with the same climate) where the floor will be installed in.  Remember that you must keep your interior humidity settings between 40%-60% (as for all wood floors) or you may experience increased expansion and contraction.

First, stack the boxes up to 5 high, with each stack located at least 2 feet away from the next. Cross-stacking is preferable if you have space.  

Once the boxes are stacked, use a box cutter or sharp knife to cut each box down one entire side lengthwise, and also the end flaps. Make sure to also cut open the interior plastic so that the floors really breathe.

• Nail-down:

  • Common installation method for solid hardwood and some engineered hardwoods.
  • Planks have a tongue and groove profile for secure attachment.
  • Individual planks are nailed to a plywood subfloor
  • Usually nailed with a pneumatic nailer and cleats but staples work on some less dense floors.
  • 15 lb asphalt saturated felt paper is often laid down first
  • Stable and long-lasting.

• Glue-down:

  • Works with engineered hardwood, luxury vinyl, and some solid hardwoods.
  • Planks are glued directly to the subfloor.
  • Glue is troweled out ahead in 2-3 row increments on the subfloor
  • When moisture is present in subfloor, special vapor barrier adhesives are used
  • Can be installed over various subfloors.

• Floating:

  • Planks click and lock together without attaching to the subfloor.
  • Common for engineered hardwood, laminate, and luxury vinyl.
  • Most floating floors have a click-lock profile for easy installation.
  • Can sometimes be glued down, but this isn't common.

You should follow two basic rules when choosing a wood flooring adhesive:

1) If you're gluing the floor down to plywood or other dry substrate, you'll want to use a zero VOC 100% urethane trowel-down adhesive approved for wood flooring installation.�I.e. when installing over plywood or a dry substrate you don’t need the adhesive to contain a vapor barrier unless there is a crawl space, garage or other moist environment underneath.�If there is a moisture concern, proceed to Step 2 below.

2) If you're gluing the floor down to concrete or any other sub-floor that may be emitting moisture, this will require an adhesive that contains a moisture/vapor barrier.� These adhesives are slightly more expensive than basic adhesives but well-worth the investment. We sell an affordably priced low-VOC adhesive with vapor barrier and sound retarder that works not only for bamboo but for all types of wood floors and even some tile; many of our clients even use it on their upstairs floors to keep noise levels down.� Important: always make sure to use the correct trowel style and size for the type of adhesive you select or you may not get enough coverage on the floor and this will cause the installation to fail.� For example, our vapor barrier adhesive should only be applied with a 1/4" x 1/4" V Notch Trowel.

About Moisture In Concrete.� Most concrete slabs emit moisture for up to 25 years after being poured, and installing a floor over such a slab is easy to do, however as with any other job done right you want to make sure you have the right tools, and adhesive, on hand.� Moisture is measured in pounds on concrete slabs. Basic adhesives usually protect up to about 3 pounds of moisture. Meaning, if you test the concrete and it comes back higher than 3, you need an adhesive that contains a moisture barrier.

Keep in mind that moisture tests only test the moisture on any given day.� A slab may read 8 lbs per square foot one day but then it rains for a week and the moisture rating jumps to 14.� Our vapor barrier adhesive mentioned above protects your floor up to 20 pounds of moisture emitted per square foot which is usually more than enough for most slabs, however, it's still always recommended to test the slab moisture emission prior to installation using a calcium chloride moisture test kit.� If you have an 'excessively wet' concrete slab or sub-floor (which emits more moisture than the upper moisture limit specification of the vapor barrier adhesive you choose), you'll need to find an unlimited vapor barrier adhesive such as Bostik Ultra-Set Single Step.

This depends on several factors mostly related to the current condition of the sub-floor.  If the subfloor is observed to be sagging, it is recommended that you install the planks in a perpendicular direction compared to the joists.  This is a call you'll want your installer to make as he/she will need to inspect the sub-floor prior to installation. 

Q: I'm installing flooring over an unconditioned space like a crawl space or a garage. What precautions should I take?

A: Great question — moisture is the #1 enemy of wood flooring, especially over unconditioned spaces. If you're installing over a crawl space, basement, or garage, it's critical to block moisture from below to protect your new floors.

Installing Over a Crawl Space

Crawl spaces are one of the most common causes of moisture-related floor failure. Even if the space seems dry, vapor rising from the ground can warp and damage your floors over time unless properly sealed.

Here's what to do:

• Install a ground vapor barrier made of minimum 6 mil black polyethylene sheeting.
• Overlap seams by at least 6 inches and seal them with moisture-resistant tape.
• Extend the plastic at least 6 inches up foundation/block walls and seal it there as well.
• Ensure a minimum of 18 inches of clearance between the ground and the underside of floor joists.
• Provide perimeter ventilation equal to at least 1.5% of the crawl space's square footage, positioned for cross-ventilation.

Pro Tip: Consider upgrading to a sealed or conditioned crawl space if you're in a high-humidity region.

Installing Over an Unconditioned Space (e.g., Garage)

If you're installing above an unheated garage or similar space, subfloor insulation is essential. The method depends on how you're installing the flooring:

If you're gluing the floor down:

• Use a 100% urethane adhesive that includes a built-in moisture barrier.

If you're nailing the floor down:

• In an unfinished space: Affix 6 mil plastic sheeting to the underside of the subfloor (garage ceiling), overlapping joints by 6 inches and sealing them with moisture-resistant tape.
• In a finished space: Apply two coats of high-gloss paint to the ceiling to seal it.
• On top of the subfloor, lay two layers of 15 lb asphalt-saturated felt paper at 90-degree angles to each other. Do not overlap the rolls within each layer to avoid unevenness.

Final Tip: Always allow your flooring to properly acclimate in the installation space before installing, and test subfloor moisture levels to ensure they're within spec.

With bamboo flooring, you have 3 options over a concrete slab.  One is to glue down any of our tongue and groove flooring with an adhesive that contains a moisture barrier (such as our Ironwood All-In-One Adhesive with Vapor/Sound Barrier), and don't forget to use the correct V-Notch ¼ inch trowel.  Option two is to float any of our rigid core bamboo floors directly on it (again, extra care must be taken with excessively wet slabs as they may need to be sealed first), and option 3 is to float one of our click-lock engineered floors after first laying down a 3 in 1 underlayment (which contains a vapor barrier).

You can glue down or nail down our solid bamboo floors to a plywood subfloor. You can also float our engineered and rigid core floors (bamboo and LVP) over plywood. Our LVP floors come with pre-attached underlayment, so you don't need to add an extra sound barrier, but for our engineered bamboo floors we recommend either a) floating them over a 3 in 1 underlayment, or b) using the glue-down method with an adhesive with sound barrier for additional sound insulation.

To see if you can install our bamboo and eucalyptus floors over specific sub-floors, we recommend reading the Acceptable Subfloor Types section in the related installation guide.  Links to the product's installation guide can be found on each floor's product detail page.

No. When gluing down flooring all you need is a high quality vapor barrier adhesive, and it's compatible trowel. Adding an underlayment is unnecessary and can actually create problems down the line.

Meanwhile, in the event you are installing a floating click lock floor, that's when you'll opt for a high quality 3 in 1 underlayment with high sound absorption and insulation. 

For nail down installations, we recommend that you use either 15 lb felt paper (asphalt-saturated roofing paper, essentially) or red rosin paper. 

Please note that 3-in-1 underlayment should only be installed under floating floors and should not be used in nail-down installations, as the compressive quality of the pad can result in loose nails, compromised structural stability, and noisy floors.

For tongue & groove floors, absolutely! The rule of thumb when installing rectangular floor planks at a diagonal is to order 15% extra for cutting and waste instead of the usual 10% extra. Easily calculate the amount of flooring and waste you'll need for your project with our handy square footage calculator!

Maximum load considerations related to your joists and building structure: We strongly suggest that you always consult a structural engineer before placing any single piece that exceeds 1,500 lbs or the maximum load your joists will hold.

Heavy objects on NAILED/GLUED-DOWN floors: There are no restrictions to placing heavy furniture floors that are nailed or glued down (aside from structural max weight restrictions) but we recommend placing sliders or rubber weight dispersion plates under the legs of excessively heavy objects to avoid permanent damage or dents.

Heavy objects on FLOATING floors: If you have a floating floor you can usually sit heavy furniture on top, but there are a few exceptions.  For example, a piano is perfectly fine and so is a piece of furniture with legs (with just 3-4 contact points with the floor).  For pieces of furniture without legs (flat across the bottom), try to avoid "pinning" a long row of successive floating floor planks across the widths of the planks, and more so if that run of planks takes up a large section of the overall run.  This is more applicable across the widths of the planks (tangentially) than down the lengths of the planks (longitudinally).  The floor needs to be able to expand and contract during seasonal cycles, and pinning the planks down will inhibit this movement and may cause planks to separate from each other.  For this same reason, you shouldn't install floating floors under kitchen cabinets.  If the bottom of the heavy object is flat and it stretches across the widths of the planks for more than 50% of that given run, and it's over 200 lbs, we suggest gluing or nailing the floor down, or not placing the object on the floor. 

Several options are available to protect bamboo floors during painting:

• Canvas drop cloths: These durable, reusable cloths offer excellent protection and don't trap moisture like plastic.
• Rosin paper: This breathable paper is designed for floor protection, allowing moisture to escape.
• Ram board: This heavy-duty cardboard is easy to install and remove, providing reliable protection.
• Floor protection paper: Similar to rosin paper, this thinner option is good for short-term protection.

Important Considerations:

• Tape securely: Use painter's tape to secure the edges of your chosen material, preventing paint from seeping underneath.
• Ventilation: Ensure good airflow in the room to help moisture evaporate quickly.
• Daily removal: Even with breathable materials, remove the floor covering at the end of each day to let the bamboo air out.

As a general rule of thumb, floors that are nailed down or glued down (our solid bamboo, solid eucalyptus, and non-SPC core engineered bamboo floors) can be installed under cabinets and islands, and floors that are floated (our rigid core LVP and click-lock bamboo floors) should not be installed under cabinets or islands. 

Note about floating bamboo floors: The primary reason these floors should not be installed under cabinets is because pinning down a long run of a floating floor made of natural materials/wood may inhibit its ability to expand and contract beneath the weight of the cabinets.

If your existing hardwood floor is clean and level, you can usually nail down to it if it is at least 5/8" thick. You can also glue down to an existing hardwood (in most cases) but you may need to perform a light sanding first depending on the finish type (your installer should be able to advise on the best course of action here). In case of either the glue down or the nail down option, we highly recommend that you seek the assistance of an experienced flooring professional.

The great thing about strand bamboo floors is that it is highly unlikely you will ever need to refinish them at all because the floor will not be dented up and the finish will not be peeling off after 10 years like many wood floors.  That being said, all of our strand woven solid bamboo floors can be refinished 2-4 times and all of our engineered floors can be refinished up to 2 times.  The wear layer on our engineered bamboo flooring is not a thin veneer like other brands – it’s a thick wear layer that can be refinished.  Please note that our rigid core bamboo flooring (with SPC core) cannot be refinished.

Refinishing bamboo flooring is a bit more time consuming than hardwood flooring, due to its density and the toughness of our finish, however, it can definitely be done.  The finish on our flooring can be sanded down/off, and then a clear coat (polyurethane) finish can be applied, on-site.  Please note that strand bamboo flooring cannot be stained before the clear coat is applied.  So our floors can be refinished with a clear coat, but they cannot be stained a different color. The density of the strand material prevents it from absorbing color stains that are applied onsite - the flooring will only absorb the stain in a controlled finish line environment.  Therefore yes, our floors can be refinished and a clear coat of polyurethane can be applied but the final color of the refinished floor will be the color of the base material (natural or carbonized).

Should you ever choose to refinish your bamboo flooring, no problem - we've got step by step instructions for you right on our How To Refinish Bamboo Flooring page.

For a thorough section about Sub-floor Preparation, we strongly recommend reading the bamboo and eucalyptus flooring installation guide.

The general advice below is for informational purposes only, as you should always consult each floor's specific/official installation guide before making your determination.� Some general sub-floor requirements:

• ��� Must be structurally sound
• ��� Must be clean - thoroughly swept and free of all debris
• ��� Must be level - flat to 1/8" per 10-foot radius
• ��� Must remain dry year-round. The moisture content of a wood subfloor must not exceed 12%. Concrete subfloors, crawl spaces, and floors that emit more than 12% moisture will need to be addressed with a vapor barrier.

Important note about Gypcrete: Gypcrete will sometimes exhibit a layer of debris that floats to the surface while being poured. This is usually obvious and if it occurs will need to be removed with coarse open grit paper on a buffer until a solid surface is reached. You will then use a diluted coat of acrylic primer to seal the surface; however, it must soak in and not leave a film. Once the gypcrete is prepped and primed you can proceed with a normal installation.

A note about Lauan/Luan/Luaun: While most urethane adhesives bond to Luan and thus you could glue our floors down to it, Luan is generally considered an unstable substrate for tile or hardwood flooring. It doesn’t have much strength, so it may contribute to squeaking or bouncing. Our recommendation is always to remove it before installing a new floor.

Wood subfloors must be dry and well secured. For nail-down installations, nail or screw every 6" along joists to avoid squeaking. If the subfloor is not level, sand down high spots and fill low spots with an underlayment patch or self-leveler such as Bostik Duralevel 83P Self-Leveling Underlayment.

Concrete must be fully cured, at least for 60 days. If it is not level, grind down high spots and fill low spots with a leveling compound. The concrete must be flat to 3/16" per 10- foot radius. All concrete must be tested for moisture and the appropriate vapor barrier urethane adhesive must be used to account for the moisture emission level.� We recommend reading our full installation guide for details.

Bamboo flooring is similar to mid-range hardwoods when it comes to dimensional stability, so they can be installed in all climates whether very dry or very humid. Our floors have been installed around the world from the jungles of Kenya to the heights of the Rockies. 

All wood flooring expands and contracts with the seasons due to changes in humidity - there are no exceptions.   The key is to control your interior humidity as to avoid excessive swings in humidity throughout the year, as these will cause expansion and contraction in your wood/bamboo.  The recommended humidity setting for our floors is 40%-60% in humid climates and 35%-55% in dry climates but even dryer and more humid settings may suffice as long as your humidity is stable (within a 20% range) throughout the year.  We do recommend to try to keep the humidity above 25% in almost all cases.  In very humid or very dry climates, just follow these tips and you will be all set:

• Acclimate your flooring for at least 10-14 days prior to installation (instead of the normal 72 hours) in the environment in which they are going to be lived on.  Ensure all boxes are opened properly so that the planks can breathe.
• Glue the flooring down. The elasticity in the glue allows the floors to breathe easily through humidity changes.
• Make sure to leave ¼ - ½ inch of expansion gap around your flooring perimeter at the time of installation.
• Try to keep your interior humidity setting consistently in the same 20% range year-round (opening windows for a day won't hurt the floors), even via the use of humidifiers/dehumidifiers if necessary.  If you allow big humidity swings, larger gaps may develop between your planks during dry spells and they'll close during wet spells.

We highly recommend reading our post about installing bamboo flooring in humid and dry climates too.

And here's a good article about installation: glue down vs nail down vs floating.

When you acclimate the flooring, if you're doing so on carpet, just make sure you place an 8 mil plastic sheet or tarp underneath the flooring boxes. This keeps the moisture being emitted from the concrete (which is usually below the carpet) from seeping into the planks. If you have plywood under your carpet, then you don't need the plastic barrier. But if over concrete, the concrete moisture comes up through the carpet—that's why we don't recommend acclimating the flooring on top of carpet.

Our bamboo floors are installed in restaurants, spas, and other high traffic and locations around the world since 2006.  Small water droplets that land on the floors will evaporate.

Our rigid core bamboo flooring is waterproof as long as you don't leave spills unattended for long periods of time, and is resistant to damage from typical damp mopping or normal household spills that are not left unattended. Our warranty does not cover flooding, leaking pipes, household mechanical failures, appliance leaks or pet urine.

Bamboo flooring is suitable for use in most rooms in your home such kitchens, dining rooms, living rooms, bedrooms and laundry rooms. For a more detailed writeup about our bamboo flooring and water, please check out our blog article on this topic.

Due to their hardness, bamboo floors are often used in kitchens and restaurants, as long as you avoid puddles and protect them with a normal level of care.  Just remember that non-SPC core hardwood and bamboo floors should never be wet-mopped or steam mopped, they just require a lightly damp mop and an effective hardwood floor cleaning solution to do the job.

Almost all of our floors can be installed over radiant heat, however, different floor types have different requirements so we recommend checking each floor's "Specifications" section on its product detail page on this website, find the row labeled "RADIANT HEAT SAFE" that will tell you if it can be installed over radiant heat or not. For more details we highly recommend checking out our bamboo flooring installation guide.

Additional important note: In the same Specifications section, you will see a link to the installation guide for that floor - please note there is a specific and detailed section in each floor's installation guide pertaining to installation over radiant heat, and maintenance of the floors over radiant heat, and we strongly suggest you read that section of the installation guide to avoid voiding your warranty!

The waiting time depends on your flooring installation method:

• Nail-down and Floating Installations: No waiting period is necessary for these methods. You can place furniture and resume normal foot traffic immediately.
• Glue-down Installations: Adhere to the adhesive manufacturer's recommended drying time. This is typically around 12-24 hours for most adhesives. Avoid heavy furniture and foot traffic until the adhesive has fully cured.

Tips:

• Use Furniture Pads: Protect your new floor by placing felt pads under the feet of furniture, especially heavy pieces, to prevent scratching.
• Careful with Large Furniture: When moving large furniture across your new floor, use furniture sliders or lift the pieces instead of dragging them to avoid damage.

Our floors are warranted in half bathrooms/powder rooms, but we don’t warrant our floors for use in full bathrooms because water may spill outside of a bathtub and flow underneath the planks, which could result in a mold issue.  That being said, many of our clients that don't use bathtubs for bathing (or are judicious in drying up water spills afterward) use them in full bathrooms anyways, they just ensure to use rugs at the entrance to showers and make sure not to leave puddles. 

Only our rigid core (SPC core) bamboo flooring is warranted for use in hot yoga studios, and here are some important considerations:

Moisture resistance: Hot yoga studios have high humidity levels. While our floors are generally more moisture-resistant than traditional hardwoods, they are not completely immune to moisture damage if exposed for long periods of time (more than a few hours at a time).

Temperature fluctuations: The constant heating and cooling cycles in a hot yoga studio can cause expansion and contraction, so be sure to build in proper expansion gaps for your floor. If you have radiant/sub-floor heating, you must follow the NWFA guidelines for maintaing wood flooring over radiant heat systems, for example, do not allow the radiant heat subfloor to exceed 85 degrees or it may irreparably damage the floor.

Installation method: If used in a hot yoga studio, it's crucial to choose a floating installation method rather than glue-down to allow for expansion and contraction.

Maintenance: Regular cleaning and maintenance will be necessary to prevent moisture buildup and preserve the floor's integrity.

Most squeaky floors are the result of the house settling and the lumber drying out and shrinking, or the sub-floor nails having come loose from the joists over years of seasonal expansion and contraction cycles, resulting in the structural wood parts rubbing up against each other and/or the nails. Loose sub-flooring will emit high frequency chirping noises.  

There are several ways to remedy this issue, including drilling screws up under the sub-floor to tighten the lumber up against each other. We suggest that you consult with a local flooring installer to review all options, as some are dependent on how your flooring is installed.

You can typically safely walk on the floors around 4-12 hours after the adhesive was first troweled down but this depends on the humidity levels of where you live, because moisture-cured urethanes dry at different intervals depending on humidity levels.  We recommend reading the adhesive pail label to determine the correct cure time.

We may have moldings, stair parts, and trim available for your floor. We recommend checking out our moldings and trim page and using the color filter to see our full selection.

We don’t carry pre-made stains specifically for matching our strand woven bamboo flooring, but we recommend purchasing a high-quality stain kit that includes a variety of colors for creating a custom blend. Since unfinished strand bamboo floors and moldings can’t be stained on-site due to their density, we suggest using unfinished low-grain woods like oak or maple to create your moldings and stair treads.

For custom staining, we recommend these stain kits:

• Minwax Wood Finish Stain Marker Kit: Great for small projects and easy to blend colors.
• Varathane Premium Stain and Polyurethane Kit: Offers a range of colors and a combined stain-and-seal application.
• General Finishes Water-Based Wood Stain Kit: Ideal for mixing to match your flooring color, with quick-drying results.
• Rubio Monocoat Color Pack: Provides a high-end, customizable stain with great durability.
• Osmo Polyx-Oil Tints Kit: Combines stain and finish, with a variety of tints.

Bamboo flooring is installed in the same manner as hardwood flooring and installation costs in the US can range anywhere from $2-$6 per square foot depending on the installation requirements.  Small square footage amounts will result in a higher per-square-foot installation cost.  

Installers will modify their pricing based on a variety of factors such as: moving of furniture, removal of existing flooring, leveling of the subfloor, installation moldings required, inside delivery charges, to name a few.  Some installers (mainly from flooring stores) will try to convince you to buy their floor brands so that they can make money off the products as well as the installation.  Any carpenter, handyman, or homeowner can install our floors, we just recommend they follow our handy bamboo flooring installation guide.

Yes! Rolling office chairs tend to collect grime, dirt, and small rocks under the wheels, which eventually damage the finish of every floor including ours.  Always use a chair mat under rolling office chairs.  It is also advised that you use felt pads under furniture and chairs to avoid damaging the finish.

Not only is stable humidity required for hardwood and bamboo flooring, but it's also healthier for you.  If you live in an area that experiences indoor humidity under 35% or over 55% at any time during the year, we suggest buying a hygrometer ($10-$15 at local hardware stores) to keep track of the humidity, and a portable humidifier or dehumidifier to properly control your indoor humidity levels.  Even better, whole house humidity modulators are affordable and readily available in the market for $300-$1000 depending on the size of your home, including installation.

We recommend that you always carefully measure your walls to determine how many moldings you'll need, however a quick ratio used by many installers is to order 30% of the total flooring square footage.  For example, if you’re installing 1,000 sq ft of flooring you'll need roughly 300 linear feet of perimeter trim moldings.  It also depends on how many cuts need to be made, but that rough estimate will get you started. For additional help with measurements for your project, check out our Square Footage Calculator (+ more)!

When nailing or gluing down floors: No run limits or restrictions on consecutive distances.

When floating your floors: If you constantly keep your indoor humidity at a level of 40%-60%, you do not have any run limits on your floating floor. This humidity level can be maintained via a humidity modulator (typically as a part of an HVAC system), standalone humidifiers/dehumidifiers, or naturally. The latter is considering that some geographic areas have relatively stable humidity year around (like Southern California or Florida), so run limits usually aren't an issue in those areas. 

However, if a) you live in an area with distinct seasons and a wide variance in humidity throughout the year, b) you don't have a way to control your humidity, and/or c) your interior humidity settings will fluctuate more than 20% in a given year, your successive runs of flooring should not exceed 25 ft across the widths of the planks and 45 ft down the lengths of the planks. For our rigid core bamboo floors (SPC core), runs should not 40 ft across the widths and 50 ft down the lengths.

We strongly recommend reading the specific installation guide for the floor you're considering installing before purchasing - a link to this guide can be found in the "Specifications" section of each floor's product detail page on our website.

Yes, mild to moderately warped wood can often be fixed. Here’s how:

Warping typically occurs due to uneven moisture content. Re-balancing the moisture can help.

• Dry Heat Method (For Mild Warps):
  • Place the piece on a flat surface in a warm, dry area.
  • Use weights to flatten it (e.g., heavy books, bricks, or clamps with a flat board on top).
  • Allow to rest for several days.
• Moisture and Heat Method (For Moderate Warps):
  • Lightly mist the concave side of the piece with water.
  • Place the pieces flat on a surface with the convex (curved-out) side facing up.
  • Cover the pieces with a damp towel.
  • Apply gentle, even heat using a heat source like an iron on low (with a cloth in between) or by leaving them in a warm, sunny spot.
  • Gradually apply weights to flatten as the wood relaxes.

Clamping: For more severe warping, clamp the piece between two flat boards and leave it for several days, checking periodically.

Installation Adjustment: Slight warping can sometimes be corrected during installation using construction adhesive and screws.

To prevent future warping, acclimate to the environment for 5–7 days before installation and maintain stable indoor humidity (35–55%).�

The short answer is yes, but it depends on what floor you're installing:

For our Engineered Floors:

- Multi-ply Core Engineered Floors: These can be installed over rubber and cork underlayments in a floating manner.

- Rigid-core SPC Floors: These cannot be installed over rubber and cork underlayments. Since these floors already have attached underlayment, the added vertical flexion will cause issues with the click-lock mechanism over time.

For our Solid Floors:

- Your only option is to glue the flooring down. You will need to confirm that the adhesive you select will successfully bond to both our solid bamboo flooring and the underlayment. Most hardwood flooring adhesives are compatible with our product, so the key is verifying the bond with the rubber or cork underlayment.

Short answer: it depends on the type of floor, but for most modern prefinished floors, the answer is no.

Mineral oil is sometimes used on unfinished or site-finished wood as a temporary conditioning or cleaning aid. In those cases, the wood can absorb the oil and later be sanded, sealed, or refinished. That is not how most flooring sold today is made or intended to be maintained.

Prefinished floors, including aluminum oxide finishes, should never have mineral oil applied. These floors are factory sealed with a durable protective finish designed to sit on top of the wood, not absorb into it. Mineral oil cannot penetrate the finish evenly and instead leaves behind a slippery residue that attracts dirt, causes smearing, and can permanently dull or haze the surface.

This is especially important for aluminum oxide–finished floors, which are extremely hard and resistant, but sensitive to oils, waxes, and solvents that are not part of their care system.

What should I do if mineral oil was already applied?

If mineral oil has been applied by mistake, it can usually be removed safely if done gently:

Avoid scrubbing, soaking the floor, or using harsh cleaners.

What should I use instead of mineral oil?

For prefinished floors, always use:

• pH-neutral hardwood floor cleaners
• Dry microfiber dust mops for routine care
• Light damp cleaning only when needed

Avoid oils, waxes, vinegar, mineral spirits, ammonia, steam mops, or solvent-based cleaners.

If you’re ever unsure about a product, check with us first. Using the right maintenance products will keep your floors looking great for years, without risking the finish.

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Our bamboo, eucalyptus, and LVP flooring has been installed around the world and in many different types of structures such as homes, restaurants, libraries, and more. However, it is only warranted for indoor use and when installed for its intended use (as flooring).  For our bamboo floors specifically, you can read all about the process in our official bamboo flooring installation guide.

If it is an enclosed, climate-controlled room and the sub-floor does not have a moisture concern, you can install bamboo flooring.  We do not recommend installing our bamboo or eucalyptus floors in a room that is not climate controlled, and you have to be careful with sub-floor moisture as well.  Otherwise, as long as the humidity inside that room is stable, and maintained between 40%-60%, and the sub-floor is dry year-round (emits less than 12% moisture), you can install the floors there. 

No. You must always remove any waxes or other types of buildup from the surface to which the adhesive will be applied.

Here is why a completely clean subfloor is non-negotiable for a successful installation:

• Surface Soundness: Adhesives can only produce well-anchored floors when the surface to which they are applied is structurally sound.
• The Weakest Link: Bonding directly to wax, dirt, paint, or sealers will produce a bond no stronger than that wax, dirt, paint, or sealer itself. If that top layer peels or fails, your entire new floor will release from the concrete.
• Preventable Failures: Skipping the prep work will often create a major bonding problem that could be entirely avoided by properly cleaning the subfloor beforehand.

Bamboo, hardwood, and vinyl floors should be kept at least 18-24 inches away from high-heat sources or the heat can dry them out and cause irreparable shrinkage.  Here are 2 rules of thumb to follow and you should be just fine:

1. Install the flooring at least 2 feet away from the stove by putting in an apron of brick/stone/similar around the stove.

2. Acclimate the flooring that will be installed near the stove in the same area where it will be installed, with the stove turned on (no closer and no farther than where it will be installed).

For hardwood and bamboo floors, you have to be careful when laying rugs or pads as they can damage the finish over time.  We recommend reading our complete write-up about acceptable rugs and pads, and below are some general instructions to follow.

It's recommended that you use natural rubber or felt rug pads under all rugs laid on hardwood floors.  If you’re looking for a simple, non-slip rug pad we recommend using a breathable, natural rubber-based pad. Natural rubber has excellent gripping power, is a renewable resource, and won't damage your floors over time like a more typical, less expensive PVC (polyvinyl chloride) pad. Natural rubber rug pads have been on the market for over 30+ years and have a proven track record for performance and floor safety.

If you need a larger area covered you can also use a 100% felt rug pad.  They offer excellent cushioning and support for larger areas and are less prone to slipping. A felt rug pad is thicker and denser than traditional non-slip rubber rug pads and offers a dense buffer.  Whichever rug pad you choose, make sure it's breathable (perforated).

No. Only an 18 gauge cleat nailer should be used to nail down strand woven bamboo and eucalyptus flooring (along with 18 gauge cleats).  If you use 16 gauge cleats, they are likely to cause dimpling on your floors as described in this article.

Furthermore, using any cleat or staple other than an 18 gauge cleat may cause cracks and splits in the tongue that will cause further issues down the road.

Need help finding out how many cleats you'll need to nail down your floors? Use our handy cleat/nail calculator!

The standard requirement for all wood flooring (including bamboo) is that you maintain proper interior humidity levels between 40%-60%.  As long as your installer follows our installation instructions, and those interior humidity settings are maintained, you'll have a trouble-free and super durable floor for a long time. Meanwhile, vinyl flooring is generally stable outside of that range, but you still want to avoid extreme temperatures (outside of 35 degrees to 85 degrees) and humidity (outside of 10%-80%).

No, asphalt-saturated felt paper is NOT a moisture barrier (neither the 15lb. felt nor the 30 lb felt).  It may help to slow down moisture and have some wicking qualities, but it does not stop it.  If you need a moisture barrier for a floating floor, you will need to use a 3 in 1 underlayment.  For a nail-down floor, there is no vapor barrier underlayment available, so you will need to seal the moisture concern somewhere below the subfloor, or you will need to glue the floor down with a vapor barrier adhesive.

Absolutely. If pet urine has damaged your previous floors enough to seep into your subfloor, that's something you'll certainly want to tend to before your new floors go in. Treat your subfloor with an enzymatic odor eliminator to ensure these unpleasant smells no longer escape your subfloor and negatively affect your indoor air quality. Our OdorGhost subfloor primer is a great product for accomplishing this - and it's warranted to work with our Ironwood vapor barrier flooring adhesive!

Most likely, but keep in mind that wood flooring is a natural product and so there may be differences in shade and color between different dye lots.  We recommend that you send us a small 6-inch sample of your current floor to the address on our contact us page – this way our warehouse manager can check our existing lots to ensure we have something that matches *before you place your order* so that you do not end up with a big shade patch in your floor.

Yes - AquaBar “B” underlayment can be used with many of our bamboo and engineered hardwood flooring products, depending on the installation method and subfloor type. AquaBar is a vapor retarder, designed to slightly reduce moisture vapor from the subfloor and minimize squeaking during nail-down installations.

Important: AquaBar Is Not a Vapor Barrier. AquaBar B is not a water vapor barrier. It is a vapor retarder only - meaning it helps reduce minor moisture vapor from reaching the bottom of the flooring planks but does not block moisture entirely.

If your subfloor has elevated moisture levels, a more thorough moisture protection solution is required to avoid damage to your floors and preserve your warranty.

Recommended Moisture Protection for Your Flooring

For Glue-Down Installations:

• Use a vapor barrier adhesive such as our Titebond 771-Step, which is specifically designed for flooring over concrete or wood sub-floors with potential moisture presence.
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For Floating Floors (Engineered Hardwood or Bamboo):

• Use a 3-in-1 underlayment that includes foam padding, sound reduction, and a full moisture vapor barrier. This is essential for installation over concrete or below-grade areas.

Don’t worry - this is usually leftover construction dust or cleaner residue on the surface, not a problem with the floor itself. Certain colors (dark or mid-tone) and matte finishes can make footprints more noticeable. Once the surface residue is removed and the cleaning routine is simplified, the floor should stop showing footprints so dramatically.

Also, overuse of cleaners, even approved ones, can leave a thin film on the finish that traps footprints. Less is more - light, sparing cleaning is better, especially in the first few weeks.

How do I safely remove residue from my new floor?

3 in 1 underlayment should never be used when nailing down a floor. These underlayments are nullified as a vapor barrier once you nail through them, and the compression of the pad results in the loosening of the cleats over time, which can result in noise squeaks and also structurally compromise the floor. Most installers use 15 lb asphalt-saturated felt paper or red rosin paper when nailing down a floor, it reduces wood-on-wood squeaking and helps wick moisture away from the bottoms of the flooring planks (please note that 15 lb felt paper is not a vapor barrier!).

Remember, if you're nailing down a strand woven bamboo floor, it is required you use an 18 gauge cleat nailer.

Yes, you can store flooring boxes in a covered building outside of the home under the following conditions:

• The boxes are protected from the elements (moisture, rain, snow, etc).
• The boxes are not open or cut.
• The temperature does not drop below freezing.
• The boxes are sitting on top of a pallet or other substrate that keeps them at least 5 inches off of the ground, and the ground is not wet.

BAMBOO/EUCALYPTUS FLOORS: Remember, storing boxes in a garage or non-climate controlled space is not considered acclimation.  In fact, for floors that are stored in a garage/shed first, we recommend acclimating them at least 2-3 extra days on top of the normal acclimation period.  The boxes will still need to be brought into the space in which they're going to be installed first (for acclimation) as per our installation instructions.

Some of our floors and plywood contain the densest hardwood material in the world (strand woven bamboo) and will wear down standard saw blades pretty quickly.  For this reason, we recommend a minimum 80 tooth tungsten carbide saw blade.  Diablo is a brand that sells such a blade (check your local big box store or online).

Plywood Tip: if you get burn marks on some of your cuts you can sand them off saw using a few stages of different high grit sandpaper. 

All types of rigid core (SPC) and engineered bamboo flooring can be installed below grade, but it is not recommended that solid hardwood or bamboo flooring be installed below grade.  When installed via the floating method, we recommend the use of a quality 3 in 1 underlayment to serve as a moisture barrier and for footfall noise reduction.  Engineered floors can be installed via the glue-down method on any level of the home, but if installing over concrete or crawl space you must use a urethane flooring adhesive that contains a vapor barrier (all-in-one glue).

Remember that you'll want to acclimate the floors in the same room in which they're going to be installed at least 72 hours prior to installation, and be careful not to acclimate them directly on concrete or over crawl spaces as they will absorb moisture, which will cause problems.  Instead, ensure to lay down an 8 mil thick plastic sheet or 3 in 1 underlayment for the boxes to sit on during acclimation, and you'll want the apron of the sheet to extend about 1 foot away from the boxes themselves for added protection. The interior humidity settings of the basement must be maintained between 40%-60% just like on any other level in the home.

Dimensionally stable flooring can be installed over well-bonded vinyl asbestos tile using our trowel down adhesives.  However, all waxes and sealers which have likely been applied to the VAT, must be stripped prior to installation. It is prudent for this sort of prep to be done by a licensed asbestos abatement professional.  Epoxy can be used as a sealer of asbestos tiles as long as there are no loose pieces, and the key is to abrade the epoxy surface so the glue can bond to it. Please note: we cannot guarantee that other adhesives will bond, so you would proceed at your own risk if you are using adhesives other than those sold by Ambient.  

Crowning - also referred to as cupping - is most commonly caused by moisture hitting the bottom of the wood floor from the sub-floor.  Read this document about cupping, crowning and buckling in wood floors. This almost always means there is a sub-floor moisture issue, and usually requires destructive floor replacement.

Shrinkage can be the result of several factors: 1) the humidity levels have dropped more than 20% (in which case most every wood substance on earth will shrink), 2) the brand of bamboo you have installed is of low quality and was not properly moisture-balanced during manufacturing, and 3) you installed a FLOATING SOLID (all-the-way-through) wood/bamboo floor and exceeded the recommended run limits.  This can sometimes be remediated by installing a humidifier; however, if the wood has become too dry there is sometimes a "point of no return."

Buckling is most commonly caused by the interior humidity increasing by 20% or more and is a result of the floor expanding and pushing against the exterior walls or interior structural elements.  This often results in two or more planks having a "teepee" effect as they push against each other and lift up.  This can be fixed by installing a dehumidifier for one week and then walking the planks to flatten them again.

We do not recommend installers. However, you have several options available to you to locate a good installer:

• Ask friends and family. Someone you know has had wood flooring installed within the last 5 years. Ask neighbors, friends, family and coworkers if they were happy with their wood floor installer and if so get their name. Contractors appreciate word-of-mouth referrals and some may even offer a "neighborhood" discount. Yelp is also a good way to find installers; look for those with a minimum of 3-5 reviews.
• Do your homework. If a contractor disparages a certain product and tries to convince you to buy one of their own floors, be wary. Sometimes this is done because of a bad experience with a low quality brand in the past, and other times they're trying to earn an extra commission from a product distributor.
• Get at least 3 estimates. Most installers will give you a free estimate over the phone or charge a small fee (from $20-$50) to do an in-home estimate. Try to cover all bases and ask as many questions as possible to get a good sense of their experience and knowledge.
• Pay a fair wage. Doing price comparisons is vital for you as a consumer. The vast majority of floor installers are honest, hard-working men and women that charge a fair wage and are working to support their families. If they go above and beyond it doesn't hurt to give them a tip at the end of the project.
• Request a warranty. The best installers are confident in their installation skills and will offer a warranty to back up their workmanship.
• Plan ahead. You'll want to assume that most installers are booked up with jobs for the ensuing 2-3 weeks, so the earlier you start getting estimates the better off you'll be. Also remember that most of our bamboo floors require at least a 3-day acclimation period, so you'll need to factor that into your plans as well.

Once adhesive cures on a wood flooring surface, it is very tough to remove and may leave behind permanent cloudy/dull spots on your finish, however you can try these steps:

    1. Pour a small amount of Bostik Urethane Adhesive Remover on the glue spot, or squeeze a small amount of remover from a Bostik Adhesive Remover Towel.

    2. Let it sit for about 15 minutes.

    3. Wipe the area clean.

    4. Apply adhesive remover again to the same spot.

    5. Let it sit for about a minute.

    6. Use a Mr. Clean® Magic Eraser® to remove cured glue.

    7. Clean the area well.

If the steps above fail, you can also attempt to wear the glue spots down using denatured alcohol, but make sure to test on a sacrificial plank first as overdoing it may also rub off some of the finish.  Finally, if none of the steps above work, or you are left with cloudy spots as a result of removing the glue, you will most likely need to cut out and replace the flooring plank.

There are a few concrete sealer products on the market you can find via basic web search and also some glue down flooring adhesives with unlimited upper moisture limits that are suitable for these types of installations such as Bostik Single-Step.  You can always test the moisture levels in your concrete using a calcium chloride test kit.

Cork underlayment is usually recommended because of it’s sound-muffling qualities, but we sell 3 in 1 underlayments that have higher STC and IIC sound ratings than cork (meaning better sound-muffling), so we normally recommend those when installing in the floating method. If you're gluing the floor down, you can use an adhesive that contains a sound barrier.

No.  Our floors are already optimized for moisture content, and ready to be acclimated and installed almost anywhere in the world.  Also, please not that due to the structurally dense nature of strand woven bamboo and eucalyptus, it is practically impossible to achieve accurate and consistent moisture readings outside of a controlled moisture chamber, even with a wide variety of moisture meters that exist on the market today, so we don't recommend testing the floor moisture before installation. 

We do however require that testing be performed on the subfloor to ensure it's not emitting more than 12% humidity/moisture before, during, and after installation.   Also, you will want to make sure the floors have been stored in a dry, covered area and have not been left out in freezing temperatures for more than 24 hours.

The installer/homeowner must also ensure to acclimate the floor** correctly prior to installation and maintain the humidity level between 35%-55% post-installation.  Remember - if acclimating on top of concrete, a crawl space, or other moisture emitting surface you must first lay down a (minimum) 8 mil thick polyethylene tarp or vapor barrier under the acclimating boxes, with the apron of the vapor barrier extending out at least 18 inches from the opened boxes. (This is to prevent the flooring from absorbing moisture while acclimating).

**Not all of our floors require acclimation - check each floor's product detail page "Specifications" section where you will see an "Acclimation Period" row with required acclimation data.

The short answer is – it depends on a lot of factors! There are many different concrete and cement products from various manufacturers on the market today. Because the components are going to differ from product to product, there is no set time frame. Although, the product manufacturer should have instructions that may list drying or curing times. Other big factors are the humidity levels, temperature, and whether or not you have fans blowing as those can all affect curing times.

The best way to determine if the subfloor is ready to be glued down to is to use to perform a calcium chloride test to ensure the vapor emission from the subfloor in question does not exceed the upper moisture limit of the adhesive you plan on using. Take for example our very own urethane adhesive with vapor barrier and sound retarder, which can be used on slabs with moisture emissions up to 20 lbs (per 1,000 square feet). That means if your calcium chloride test results come back under 20 lbs (per 1,000 square feet), then you are good to go! But let us say your test results came back at 6 lbs (per 1,000 square feet) but your adhesive is only rated for 3 lbs (per 1,000 square feet), then your floors are very likely to cup as the moisture in the slab exceeds the capabilities of the adhesive.

The fastest method to take up cured adhesive is to use grinding machines. A clean and less toxic one is a dustless diamond grinder. If you need to scrape glue out of a smaller space, Sentinel is a brand that makes some good non-toxic adhesive removers that will soften the adhesive to allow it to be scraped up easier.

Nailing and gluing a floor down won't cause damage or defects, but it's usually only recommended on extra-wide solid hardwoods (exceeding 6 inches in width). On planks that are less than 6 inches wide, doing both is superfluous - you only need to do one or the other. It's also important to never nail or staple through click-lock floors, as they are not intended to be nailed down.

Making cross-cuts and cuts down the length of floor planks can be tougher with traditional hardwoods, since the grain can prohibit a clean, even cut. However, you won't have this issue with strand woven bamboo floors and can easily cut the planks in any direction since the woven strips of bamboo that make up the floor planks are fused together during manufacture. Because of this, strand woven bamboo floors do not require a particular saw in order to be cut cleanly.

Cupping can happen for several reasons, but the #1 culprit is installer error or improper maintenance of environmental conditions onsite.  Cupping is usually caused by elevated moisture content rising from the sub-floor and hitting the bottom of the flooring planks.  Moisture affects the sides of the plank quicker than the center, causing them to swell and form the “cup” shape. There are many causes including improper flooring adhesive, incorrect trowel with the wrong spread rate, improper acclimation of the floor prior to installation, and many more.  If you follow our installation and maintenance guides, you should not experience any of these issues.

Some cupping can be considered normal on wide planks, but if it is significant, there is usually an underlying issue. Important things to look out for:

1) The flooring was installed over a crawl space that wasn't properly sealed and the humidity is coming up through the subfloor and hitting the wood/bamboo floor.

2) The bamboo flooring was glued down to a concrete slab but the glue wasn't troweled down properly (either wrong trowel was used or there isn't full coverage on the slab) and there are gaps in the glue, so the moisture being released by the slab is hitting the bottom of the wood/bamboo floor. Different glues have different moisture barriers (3 lbs, 5 lbs, and 12 lbs are common) and you will need to use one with a high enough barrier for your subfloor.

3) The flooring wasn't acclimated properly so now the wood has adjusted and it's now it's drying out and changing shape.

4) Dry cupping: when a homeowner leaves the home and turns off the hvac, it can result in what is called the "Green House Effect" in summer time. Excessive heat and humidity followed by air conditioning will cause cupping.

Below are a few good links for further reading:

• Wood Floor Cupping: Why Does it Happen & What Can You Do?
• Wood Floor Cupping Cause and Effect
• An Overview of Cupping & Crowning

Typically, if the finished basement is climate controlled, you do not need a moisture barrier in between the subfloor and the new floor you are installing. However, some basements can emit excessive humidity – upwards of 70%. To be sure, we recommend testing the humidity with a hygrometer to get an accurate idea of the indoor air humidity, and you can also test the humidity on the main grade sub-floor itself. 

If excessive moisture is coming up from the basement, you have a few options:

1) Glue down the floor using an adhesive with a vapor barrier.

2) Choose a click-lock floating floor and install on top of a 3 in 1 vapor barrier underlayment.

Both of these will seal off your floor and protect it from any sub-floor moisture.

Adhesive remover wipes are designed to clean up wet adhesive before it dries. Wet glue is much more difficult to remove with soap and water, but the wipes have a special compound that helps to break down the glue.  

Once flooring adhesive dries it is impossible to remove and will irreparably damage your floor finish, as the topcoats will be stripped away when you remove the dried glue. Absolutely never use mineral spirits to remove any glue from our floors, as mineral spirits will damage uv-cured urethane finishes 

If adhesive dries on your finish, we advise that you put some of the Adhesive Remover liquid on the spot, let it sit for 10 minutes and then use a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. This can get in the pores of the finish and get most of the glue off, but please note that you may still damage the floor finish itself.

It is the responsibility of you or your installer to determine whether the glue brand you are using with our floors will suffice, and we do not require nor reject specific brands.  You should be able to place a quick call to the glue manufacturer you are considering to determine whether it can be used in conjunction with hardwood and bamboo flooring.

Using a glue other than those we sell will not void your floor warranty per se, as our warranty covers our floors, not the tools or materials used to install them.  If the floor fails later and the reason is that it was improperly installed or the glue failed, this should be covered by your installer's warranty or the warranty of the adhesive you purchased.

We strongly suggest only hiring installers that provide a 1-year warranty on their labor as most flooring problems arise within the first 6 months after installation, and the great majority of flooring issues are installation-related.

NAIL DOWN OR GLUE DOWN INSTALLATIONS

Gapping in hardwood floors is normal wood behavior and dry, cold days can cause this; in summer when the humidity increases and the planks swell, the gaps may or may not close up. This is normal and to be expected as wood is a hygroscopic material that expands and contracts to balance itself out with the humidity in its environment.

Check your humidity levels using a hygrometer and if your humidity is at or below 35% we recommend turning on a humidifier to remedy the solution.� If gapping exists but humidity levels are between 40%-60% (recommended humidity range for hardwood and bamboo) it may be a result of improper acclimation or an uneven subfloor (where the planks are “sliding” down opposite sides of a mound due to repeated foot traffic), or the humidity was allowed to drop below 30% in which case the gaps may be permanent.

FLOATING INSTALLATIONS - GAPS BETWEEN SHORT/BUTT ENDS OF PLANKS

If you installed the floor via floating method, the gaps between short ends of the planks could be due to one of the following:

--Subfloor is not sufficiently level per installation requirements
--Plank click-lock mechanism was not fully engaged during installation, particularly at the short ends
--Excessive movement or deflection in the subfloor over time
--Installation of fixed cabinetry or heavy fixtures on top of a floating floor, pinning planks down, prohibiting natural expansion/contraction
--Insufficient expansion space around the perimeter or fixed objects, which can restrict normal floor movement

To fix this issue on floating floors you can use tapping blocks and rubber mallets to fix the issue - we recommend checking out this video!

MAINTAIN STABLE HUMIDITY

The National Wood Flooring Association recommends that you maintain a range of around 40%-60% humidity levels in your home if you have any wood floor installed. Want to know more?� Here's another great article on how moisture affects hardwood flooring.

Check out this page to see step by step instructions on how to refinish bamboo flooring, along with some helpful pictures of a past Ambient floor that was refinished.

Most designers and installers will lay the flooring longitudinally so that it is parallel to the longest run or wall in the installation.  There are some exceptions, but this is a general rule of thumb.