We've organized our Installation Instructions into three different pages. Click the link to view the appropriate page. If you have further questions please contact us.
Topics in this section:
Our flooring products are quality inspected before packaging and shipping. Nevertheless, a preliminary jobsite inspection of your flooring should be performed for grade, color, finish and quality. Ensure adequate lighting for proper inspection. If you find an irregularity in your flooring (that exceeds the 5% industry standard), please contact your vendor immediately for replacement. The installer and/or owner of our bamboo/eucalyptus floors have the final inspection responsibility as to grade, manufacture and factory finish. The installer must use reasonable selectivity (common sense) to hold out, relocate in hidden places, or cut out pieces with glaring defects, whatever the cause. Installation of any material serves as acceptance of that material and Manufacturer will not accept responsibility for flooring installed with visible defects.
As with traditional wood floors it is the end-users responsibility to provide and maintain appropriate humidity levels between 40%-60% via the use of humidifier and/or dehumidifier to avoid separation and/or damage to the flooring planks. DO NOT USE A WET MOP OR A STEAM MOP ON A WOOD/BAMBOO/EUCALYPTUS FLOOR.
When our bamboo/eucalyptus flooring is ordered, approximately 7% to 10% should be added to the actual square footage needed as
allowance for cutting and waste. Should an individual piece be doubtful as to grade, manufacture, or factory finish, the installer
should not use that piece. Do not throw these pieces away, in order for you to receive a refund we will need to pick up all defective
items. Do not discard original carton packaging in the event you need to return flooring. We only accept returns in original packaging.
It is the installer’s responsibility to ensure a snug fit between all planks via the use of a racking system or a block and tap method, to ensure that flooring planks fit tightly together on all sides. If the installer is not able to achieve a tight fit between planks they should remove them and attempt a tighter fit with new plank(s).
All of our tongue and groove floors can be either nailed down or glued down (ensure to read about required tools and adhesives further down in this document). If you’re gluing one of our polyurethane finish floors down, we highly recommend that you purchase adhesive remover wipes and use them to wipe off the glue as you’re installing the floor (do not use these wipes on hardwax oil finish floors). If the glue cures on top of the finish it may be impossible to remove without damaging the finish, which will result in having to cut out and replace the affected planks.
The use of paint thinner, mineral spirits, turpentine and certain abrasive chemicals may irreparably damage the finish. Ensure to test all cleaning agents on a sacrificial plank prior to use.
Use only 3M/Scotchguard #2080. Do not leave any tape on any finish surface for more than a few hours or it will damage the finish.
If you choose to glue down stair treads or stair pieces, make sure to use an adhesive that is not water or latex based. Using an adhesive that releases moisture will damage the moldings and cause splitting,cracking and possibly warping. We recommend that you use the same adhesive on the moldings as was used to glue down your flooring. Once the molding piece is glued down, place a heavy object on top of the molding for a period of at least 8 hours to ensure a cohesive bond.
Installing strand bamboo/eucalyptus trim pieces with a nail gun can be more difficult than trim pieces made of other materials. The strand woven material in particular is extremely dense and you will need to either a) pre-drill these moldings and then nail them, b) glue them in, or c) use a nail gun that can fire a 1" long micro thin nail (we suggest the Bostich Porter Cable 23 GA gun with a 1" long micro thin nail - this can be purchased directly from Bostich or rented).
Hardwax oil floors require oiling once per year typically, in addition to regular cleaning with specialized cleaning solutions. It is required that you follow the maintenance instructions LOCATED HERE.
All of our flooring products must be acclimated for a minimum of 72 hours prior to installation, following the guidelines below:
Prior to installation of any flooring, the installer must ensure that the jobsite and subfloor meet the requirements of these instructions. Manufacturer is not responsible for floor failure resulting from unsatisfactory jobsite and/or subfloor conditions.
Ambient flooring flooring should be one of the last items installed on any new construction or remodel project. All work involving water or moisture should be completed before floor installation.
Room temperature and humidity of installation area should be consistent with normal, year-round living conditions for at least a week before installation. Room temperature of 60 degrees to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity range of 40% to 60% is recommended. Bamboo/eucalyptus flooring is a living material which is hygroscopic and therefore reacts to changes of relative humidity and consequently, its dimension changes. When humidity is highest in the summer this humidity is absorbed by the bamboo/eucalyptus, which causes it to expand and in extreme cases it will “cup" because of the bamboo/eucalyptus strips pushing against one another. These variations can be minimized with proper ventilation, heating or by the use of a dehumidifier. Alternately, in the winter when the humidity is low and the heating system is on, the bamboo/eucalyptus releases its humidity and consequently shrinks or contracts. It is then recommended that you use a humidifier in order to minimize the shrinkage.
Store your flooring at the installation site for 72 hours before installation to allow flooring to adjust to room temperature and humidity. Do not store the flooring directly on concrete or near outside walls. Our engineered flooring is acceptable for below-grade installation and basements when used with a underlayment pad that has a moisture barrier. We warrant our solid strand floors in basements, as long as they are glued using an adhesive with moisture barrier.
A note about Lauan/Luan/Luaun: While most urethane adhesives bond to Luan/Lauan/Luaun plwood and thus you could glue our floors down to it, Luan is generally considered an unstable substrate for tile or hardwood flooring. It doesn’t have much strength, so it may contribute to squeaking or bouncing. Our recommendation is always to remove it before installing a nice new floor.
Wood subfloors must be dry and well secured. For nail-down installations, nail or screw every 6" along joists to avoid squeaking. If the subfloor is not level, sand down high spots and fill low spots with an underlayment patch or self-leveler such as Bostik Duralevel 83P Self-Leveling Underlayment.
Concrete must be fully cured, at least for 60 days. If it is not level, grind down high spots and fill low spots with leveling compound. The concrete must be flat to 3/16" per 10- foot radius. Do not install on concrete unless you are sure it stays dry year-round. All concrete must be tested for moisture, or a moisture barrier product must be used. We offer Bilders Ultimate moisture barrier, adhesive and sound barrier all in one.
As concrete hardens, it traps moisture that is slowly released over time. The following tests are standard construction industry practice for determining the moisture level of your floor:
Please refer to the recommended installation matrix at the bottom of this document. Depending on the product, the floor may be nailed or glued down over wood subfloors, glued directly to concrete subfloors on or above grade, or installed as floating flooring. (If installed below grade, a moisture membrane must be used. We recommend using a 3-in-1 membrane.) For all types of installation, joints must be staggered 10" to 20". Bridging the flooring across the floor joists is recommended. Note: Ambient does not recommend installing on particleboard (OSB is the only exception), unless the application is a floating floor.
Surfaces must be clean, dry, smooth and free of dirt, wax, oil, paint, curing agents and other contaminants that would interfere with adhesive bond. Old resilient floors can be installed over provided above conditions apply. Wood subfloors must be sanded level prior to new installation. In a glue-down installation, the use of a self-leveling product is acceptable as long as it is compatible with the underlying adhesive.
Concrete subfloors must have all cracks and holes filled with a cement-like patching material. While bamboo flooring is more stable than most woods, it is still subject to damage when in direct contact with a constantly wet slab. The bamboo must be isolated from this type of slab by use of a concrete sealant, reverse vinyl or sleeper subfloor. Concrete subfloors must be tested for moisture and not exceed three pounds per 1,000 square feet using the calcium chloride test.
If the moisture content of the subfloor exceeds three pounds, you must use a moisture barrier product. We offer BildersUltimate which is a combination of moisture barrier, adhesive and sound barrier.
Important Note About Crawl Spaces. Many wood floors fail due to the failure of the installer to address moisture in crawl spaces. If you have a crawl space under your home or new flooring you must properly remedy this moisture. Please note that 15 lb felt paper is not considered a moisture barrier. You must have a high quality vapor barrier or moisture insulation (with 100% blockage) or the moisture coming up from the crawl space will damage the flooring. A ground layer cover of 6 to 20 millimeter polyethylene film (black) is vital with joints overlapping at least 6 inches, and sealed with moisture resistant tape. There must be a minimum of 18 inches from the ground to underside of joists and it should have perimeter venting equal to at least 1.5% of the crawl space total square footage. The vents should be properly placed for cross-ventilation. The crawl space should have a mechanical venting system.
Important Note About Installing Over An Unconditioned Space (such as a garage): Subfloor moisture penetration of improperly sealed sub-floors over unconditioned spaces is a common cause of wood floor failure. If you are gluing the floor down over such a space, you must use a 100% urethane adhesive that contains a moisture barrier. If you are nailing the floor down over such a space, you will need to follow these steps:
Note about gluing down to existing wood floors: it is common knowledge that the installer must first verify if the adhesive being used will bond to the existing wood floor. If installer is not sure, he must sand down the existing wood floor completely prior to glue down.
Bamboo/eucalyptus is a natural product and has natural color variations. Mixing cartons creates a natural, random shade effect. Never lay out a floor without paying attention to the overall look. You control the color and pattern of planks that are put down, therefore you control the true color and variation of wood in your floor.
When acclimating our flooring over a concrete subfloor, make sure not to stack the boxes directly on the concrete as this may cause bowing of the flooring planks. It is recommended that you first lay down a plastic membrane or water proof underlayment, then place the boxes on top of that membrane, to acclimate (72 hours). Manufacturer will not take responsibility for any flooring boxes that are placed directly on concrete as this may compromise the flooring.