Additional tools you will need:
Underlayment with 1 plastic side must be used when installing over concrete. Ensure to check the underlayment installation instructions as some underlayments are installed with the vapor barrier facing down, and others are installed with the moisture barrier facing up. Make sure the flat side of the roll is against the outside wall and the side with the excess plastic is towards the center of the room. Starting in a corner unroll the underlayment until it hits the far wall. Cut the underlayment leaving about ¼” between the underlayment and the wall. Roll out a parallel line of underlayment adjacent to the first roll. Cut at the wall and tape the entire length of the seam with duct tape. Note: When rolling out the adjoining length of underlayment be sure to overlap the plastic and tape foam to foam. This will prevent moisture from penetrating in between rolls. Do this for the entire room being sure to tape all seams. For ease of installation you can also tape down the perimeter of the underlayment to the subfloor.
Do not remove flooring from the packages until you are ready to begin installation. Removing the boards prior to acclimating the flooring could result in a difficult installation. Inspect each board before installation.
Start in the corner of the room with the locking edge open toward you and the L-shaped side toward the wall. Install the entire first row, clicking the end of each board and cut the last board to size. Be sure to leave 1/4"-1/2"-wide space between the floor and wall. You can use expansion shims at 12" intervals. For a better expansion joint, it is recommended that the tongue be sawn off of each plank along the wall. Start the second row with a cut piece at least 18" in length. You can also use the cut board from the first row. When installing the second row, insert the long edge of the board at a 20 degrees to 30 degrees angle, adjacent with the first row. Push forward and down at the same time, and make sure the boards lock together. You will often hear a clicking noise. At the end of each row, use a rubber mallet as necessary to ensure that all edges are tightly fitted together. Do not hit the boards with too much force as you may cause damage to the clicking mechanism.
After installing the third row make any adjustments necessary to straighten the floor as additional installed rows will make it harder to shift. Repeat the installation instructions above throughout the entire room until you've reached the last row. You may choose to do a random staggered pattern or a stair step or bonded pattern. The last row will probably need to be cut lengthwise. To measure the last row, place a board directly on top of the last installed row of the boards. Scribe the row and cut to fit.
Transitioning between rooms where the connection is a doorway or narrow in width should always be done with care to leave an expansion gap, as this is a common site where pinning occurs. Narrow areas bridging two large floor expanses can create stress and fracturing in the floor.
Note: Do not set heavy appliances on top of a continuous floating floor. Instead, create an island of bamboo flooring underneath the appliance, and create a break in the flooring between that island and the rest of the floor this break can be covered by a t-molding.
Once your flooring has been installed, you can begin to use it immediately.
**IMPORTANT: Only engineered bamboo flooring with a multi-ply core, and minimum plank thickness of 9/16", is warranted over radiant heat systems.
RADIANT HEAT GUIDELINES - PRIOR TO INSTALLATION
RADIANT HEAT GUIDELINES - DURING INSTALLATION
RADIANT HEAT GUIDELINES - AFTER INSTALLATION / MAINTENANCE
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